Last Sunday, the 4th of Jan. 2009, I was watching “Jawabdeh” the Pakistani version of BBC’s HARDTalk show by Geo News. The interviewer was channel’s most popular anchorman Iftikhar Ahmad, who is known for his razor sharp questions - questions that baffle even the sharpest, the wittiest and the wisest guy. At the grinding disc of Itikhar now was none else than the young prime minister of Azad Kashmir, Sardar Ateeq Ahmad Khan.
Though presently the PM is facing a no confidence move in the Assembly, he appeared very confident to emerge successful over what he called move by a bunch of legislators who could hardly muster 2-3 seats in the AJK Assembly.
But politics apart, the most important aspect of this Q & A session was young PM’s approach towards a policy of dialogue vis-รก-vis his father’s on Kashmir dispute between India and Pakistan. Quite logically did he respond to pointed questions raised by I.A. and apprised the latter on salient features of phased withdrawal of Pakistani and Indian forces from both parts of Kashmir. A step which, he said, will pave way for a gradual move towards a permanent solution of Kashmir dispute, a solution which would guarantee a face saving formula for all stake holders.
Another idea which this writer found highly innovative was Saradar Ateeq’s approach on development and promotion of Tourism in Azad Kashmir. Hitherto A.K. has been an area where only Pakistanis could see the touristic attractions of this paradise like part of the valley. Foreigners were allowed only on a special permit to visit the area.
During my personal visits to Azad Kashmir I saw lot of developments, which were done during the administration of former prime minister of the state. But this wonderful developmental work was shattered during the terrible earthquake in Oct. 2005. Extensive efforts were made ever since and the life in the affected areas has almost come to normal. Now the state administration endeavors to go beyond restoration and is intending to surpass development much above the pre 2005 level. It is good news that the present prime minister of A.K. recognises the importance of tourism in the economy of the state. We are confident that if he seriously follows up his own initiative, the area of Azad Kashmir can definitely turn into a touristic paradise not only for domestic but also for our foreign guests.
THE THIRD POLE: The majestic range of Karakorams in Northern Pakistan has the honor of having World's largest glaciers after the poles. This photograph is one of the many taken on location during extreme summer month.
THE LARGEST LANDOF GLACIERS
by Nayyar Hashmey
How did it start?
In about 1978, the Indian Army mounted an expedition to Teram Kangri peaks (in the Siachen area on the China border and just east of a line drawn due north from NJ9842) as a precursor-exercise (a camouflage to occupy the area by force). The first public mention of a possible conflict situation was an article by Joydeep Sircar in The Telegraph newspaper of Calcutta in 1982, reprinted as "Oropolitics" in the Alpine Journal, London, in 1984. India launched an operation on 13 April, 1984. The Indian Army and the Indian Air Force went into the glacier region. Pakistan army quickly responded with troop deployments and what followed was literally a race to the top.
Current situation
Ever since then, the Indian Army occupies the high altitude side of the Siachen Glacier and the three main passes of the Saltoro Ridge immediately west of the glacier, Sia La, Biafond La, and Gyong La, thus holding onto the advantage of high ground. However, its tactical advantage by contrast demands a heavy toll in terms of money and human loss. Gyong La (Pass) itself is at 35-10-29N, 77-04-15E; that high point is controlled by India. Pakistan controls the glacial valley five kilometers southwest of Gyong La.
Though Pakistani soldiers have waged a valiant struggle to get up to the crest of the Saltoro Ridge, the Indians resist to come down and abandon their strategic high posts. In 2003 a ceasefire went into effect. Even before then, every year more solders were killed because of severe weather than enemy firing. The two sides have lost more than 2,000 personnel primarily due to frostbite, avalanches and other complications.
Who owns Siachen
The glacier is well inside Pakistani territory. But India’s strategic want to keep an eye and a possibility to seek vigilance over Pakistan's strategic route to China (the Karakorum Highway) in 1982 it sent a training expedition to Antarctica to train under "Siachen Glacier Like" conditions. Then in April 1984, it conducted its Operation Meghdoot', and invaded Pakistani territory.
Since the glacier is not physically connected to India (there is no natural ground routes connecting India and Siachen Glacier), therefore, it used its Air Force to drop all of its forces at Siachen and still to this day uses helicopters and aircrafts to transport supplies, food and soldiers.
Historically—geographically—and factually this third pole on earth is well Inside Pakistan where Pakistanis are confronting the Indians who have a force 5 times their size. However, India in the process is paying a heavy price. According to a book on the War on Siachen, 50% of Indian soldiers, who make back alive, suffer from permanent mental retardation, not to mention amputations and other terrible things that Indian soldiers have to go through.
Top of Form
Bottom of Form
Left to Right) Paiju Peak (Trango II?), The Trango Monk, Trango Nameless Tower (6,239 m), and the mass of the Great Trango (6,286 m) on the northern lateral moraine of the Baltoro Glacier in the Baltoro Muztagh
Range.
This is the junction of Biafo and Hispar glaciers which together form 118 km of longest layer of ice on the Earth outside the pole.The war has been going on for almost quarter of a century. Though the price has been heavy for both sides (especially for India), Pakistan has been slowly driving the Indians out of Siachen Glacier (Pakistani Territory).
As the conflict between two nuclear neighbors continues, another apathetic side haunts Siachen. Right on the glacier, amid bullets whistling over wild roses and snow leopards’ dens, the already fragile environment is highly endangered due to perpetual warlike conditions since several decades. To save the flora and fauna, the natural habitat in the area, in 2003 this beleaguered bit of no-man’s-land high up in the Himalayas was readied for a radical recasting, when a group of Pakistani and Indian mountain climbers gathered in the Swiss Alps to highlight the plight of Siachen and other threatened cross-border regions.
The solution? Designating the glacier a ‘peace park’ where two hostile nations could cooperate for the sake of sustainable development. However, this process didn’t come to a declaration of an inter-national peace park due to apprehensions and doubts on both sides. Last year, India started inviting foreign climbers to the Siachen to prove its virtual hold over the glacier. This again put things in the back gear.
Siachen’s Present Scenario
Just a week before Mumbai attacks on 26th November this year, time had been most opportune. Pakistani President Asif Ali Zardari was sincerely pushing for a serious dialogue between two nations, the idea of a ‘peace park’ was ripe for rejuvenation once again. However, the Mumbai attacks have once again brought both nations to the old ‘worst enemy stance’.
But war in Siachen is a war against nature than a war between 'too' Nuclear Neighbours
Many in Pakistan and India perhaps might take this approach being out of tune, but this writer personally believes, the majority of people in Pakistan as well as the Govt. in Pakistan, do wish a permanent peace between India and Pakistan. I have been advocating for friendship parks between India and Pakistan, one at the Wahga border crossing and the other one at the Siachen. But quite ironically this time its India reversing the cycle and resisting attempts for peace and friendship between two neighbours raising issues such as terrorism; ignoring the very fact that Pakistan too is the target of terrorists as much as India is.
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Embedded in the lap of Pakistan's mighty Karakorams (here shown in dark green) lies Siachen (the small, dark orange part).
THE LARGEST LANDOF GLACIERS
by Nayyar Hashmey
In Pakistan,we have more glaciers than any other land outside the north and south poles. Our glacial area covers some 13,680 sq. km which represents an average of 13 per cent of mountain regions of the upper Indus Basin.Baltistan,in our north eastern corner and in the heart of Karakorams, provides the world's most magnificent mountain scenery and mountaineering possibilities. Renowned for the largest glaciers and towering peaks, it has four 8000m peaks, and many over 7000m.
The glaciersin Pakistan can rightly claim to possess the greatest mass and collection of glaciated space on the face of earth. In fact, in the lap of our Karakoram mountains alone there are glaciers whose total length would add up to about 6,160 sq. km. To put it more precisely, as high as 37 per cent of the Karakoram area is under its glaciers against Himalayas' 17 per cent and European Alps' 22 per cent. The Karakorams have one more claim to proclaim; its southern flank (east and west of the enormous Biafo glacier) has a concentration of glaciers which works out to 59 per cent of its area.
Eric Shipton,a great mountaineer who perished in Pakistan's Northern Areas, while describing the peaks and glaciers in Pakistan wrote in his account “To describe this region is to indulge in superlatives, for everywhere you look are the highest, the longest and the largest mountains, glaciers and rivers in the world”.Makingsome allowance for Shipton's tendency towards slight exaggeration, born out of awe and fascination, the fact remains that Pakistan boasts of the largest share of the highest number of glaciers after the poles.
This largest ice massin the subcontinent however, continues to mar relations between India and Pakistan.
Locatedin the disputed region of Kashmir its average winter snowfall is 10.5m (35 ft.) and temperatures can dip to minus 50○C (minus 58○F). In spite of thissevere climate, the word 'Siachen' ironically means 'the place of wildroses, a reference some people attribute to the abundance of Himalayanwildflowersfound in the valleys below the glacier, but specifically refers to the thorny wild plants which grow on the rocky outcrops.
Presentlythe glacier is also the highest battleground on earth, whereIndiaandPakistanhave fought intermittently sinceApril 13,1984. Pakistan maintains permanent military personnel in the region at a height of over 6,000m and so does India. The site is a prime example ofmountain warfare.
The glacier's melting watersare the main source of the Nubra River, which drains into theShyok River. The Shyok in turn joins theIndus River.The glacier's melting waters are a major source of the river Indus, a vital water source for Pakistan
The conflictin Siachen stems from the confusion in the improperly demarcated territory on the map beyond the map coordinate known as NJ9842. The1949Karachi Agreementand the1972Simla Agreement did not clearly mention who controlled the glacier, merely stating that from the NJ9842 location the boundary would proceed "thence north to the glaciers." In the 1960's and 1970's, however, the United States Defense Mapping Agency (now National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency) issued maps showing detailed position of the area and made their maps available to the public and pilots as proceeding from NJ9842 east-northeast to theKarakoram Passat 5534m (18,136 ft.) on the China border. Other international (governmental and private cartographers and atlas producers) confirmed this position. This implied in a cartographical and categorical allocation of the entire 2700 square kilometers (1040 square miles) Siachen area to Pakistan. However, prior to 1984 neither India nor Pakistan had any permanent presence in the area presumably due to the extremely harsh conditions which prohibited any such presence.
In the1970sand early1980sseveralmountaineeringexpeditions applied to Pakistan to climb high peaks in the Siachen area and Pakistan granted them, which reinforces our claim on the area, as these expeditions arrived on the glacier with a permit obtained from theGovt. of Pakistan.
The glacier is well inside Pakistani territory. However, India with a design to keep an eye over Pakistan's strategic route to China (the Karakorum Highway) in 1982 sent a training expedition to Antarctica to train under "Siachen Glacier Like" conditions. Then in April 1984, it conducted its Operation Meghdoot', and invaded Pakistani territory.
Since the Glacieris not physically connected to India (there is no natural ground routes connecting India and Siachen Glacier), therefore, it used its air force to drop all of its forces at Siachen. And still to this day uses helicopters and aircrafts to transport supplies, food and soldiers.
On this third poleon earth, Pakistani military is confronting the Indians who have a force 5 times its size. In the process India is paying a heavy price. According to a book on the War at Siachen Glacier, 50% of Indian soldiers, who make back alive, suffer from permanent mental retardation, not to mention amputations and other terrible things that Indian soldiers have to go through.
The warhas been going on for about quarter of a century. Though the price has been heavy for both sides (especially for India), Pakistan has been slowly driving the Indians out of Siachen Glacier.
Wonders of Pakistansupports freedom of expression and this commitment extends to our readers as well. Constraints however, apply in case of a violation ofWoP Comments Policy.We also moderate hate speech, libel and gratuitous insults.
As the current agitation demonstrates, far from gratitude, there is active hatred of India. Pakistan, a small, second-rate country that has been left far behind by India, suddenly acts as though it is on par with us, lecturing India in human rights and threatening to furth internationalise the present crisis. (This is a typical stance adopted by even right thinking people like Vir Sanghvi in India and which of late matches exactly to what US neocons are thinking, planning and proceeding about our country’s future reshaping. This very stance is the crux of problems between Pakistan and India. Ed).
The world looks at us with dismay. If we are the largest democracy on the planet then how can we hang on to a people who have no desire to be part of India?
The other cost of Kashmir is military. Many terrorist acts, from the hijacking of IC 814 to the attack on parliament have Kashmir links. Our response to the parliament attack was Operation Parakram, which cost, in ten months, Rs 6,500 crore and 800 army lives? (Kargil cost us 474 lives.) Each day, our troops and paramilitary forces are subjected to terrorists's attacks, stress, and ridicule.
So, here's my question: why are we still hanging on to Kashmir if the Kashmiris don't want to have anything to do with us?
The answeris machismo. We have been conned into believing that it would diminish India if Kashmir seceded. And so, as we lose lives and billions of dollars, the Kashmiris revel in calling us names knowing that we will never have the guts to let them go.
But would India really be diminished? One argument is that offering Kashmiris the right to self-determination would encourage every other secessionist group. But would it? Isn't there already a sense in which we treat Kashmir as a special case?
No other secessionist group gets Article 370 or so much extra consideration. Besides, if you take this line, then no solution (autonomy, soft borders etc.) is possible because you could argue that everybody else would want it too.A second objection is that Indian secularism would be damaged by the secession of Kashmir. This is clearly not true. As history has shown, Indian Muslims feel no special kinship with Kashmir. They would not feel less Indian if some Kashmiris departed.
MOREOVER, TOO MUCH IS MADE OF THE SIZE OF KASHMIR.
Actually secessionist feeling is concentrated in the Valley, an area with a population of 4 million that is 98 per cent Muslim. (The Hindus either left or were driven out). Neither Jammu nor Ladakh want to secede. So, is the future of India to be held hostage to a population less than half the size of the population of Delhi?
I reckon we should hold a referendum in the Valley. Let the Kashmiris determine their own destiny. If they want to stay in India, they are welcome. But if they don't, then we have no moral right to force them to remain. If they vote for integration with Pakistan, all this will mean is that Azad Kashmir will gain a little more territory. If they opt for independence, they will last for about 15 minutes without the billions that India has showered on them. But it will be their decision.
Whatever happens, how can India lose? If you believe in democracy, then giving Kashmiris the right to self-determination is the correct thing to do.
And even if you don't, surely we will be better off being rid of this constant, painful strain on our resources, our lives, and our honour as a nation? This is India's century. We have the world to conquer — and the means to do it. Kashmir is a 20th century problem. We cannot let it drag us down and bleed us as we assume our rightful place in the world.
There are many Yahoo Groups on the net. I do not subscribe to any, but sometime I do glance on something that could interest me or WOP readers. As I understand, these groups are basically internet hangouts where everybody can whisper, speak loud, express seriously, jokingly, rant and rasp to one’s likes and dislikes. In other words they are the modern electronic version of a Hyde Park. It was at one such group that I came across a highly thought provoking assessment of Kashmir situation by an Indian writer, an article over the burning vale of Kashmir - the principal irritant between India and Pakistan, a problem that mars good neighborly relations between the two of us ever since independence. Ed.
Think the Unthinkable…
Have you been reading the news coming out of Kashmir with a mounting sense of despair? I know I have. It's clear now that the optimism of the last few months — all those articles telling us that normalcy had returned to Kashmir — was misplaced. Nothing has really changed since the 1990s.
A single spark — such as the dispute over Amarnath land — can set the whole valley on fire, so deep is the resentment, anger and the extent of secessionist feeling. Indian forces are treated as an army of occupation. New Delhi is seen as the oppressor. There is no engagement with the Indian mainstream. And even the major political parties do not hesitate to play the Pakistan card — Mehbooba Mufti is quite willing to march to the Line of Control.
At one level, the current crisis in Kashmir is a consequence of a series of actions by the Indian establishment. New Delhi let the situation fester until it was too late. The state administration veered between inaction and over-reaction. The Sangh Parivar played politics with Hindu sentiment in Jammu, raising the confrontation to a new level.
But we need to look at the Kashmir situation in a deeper way. We can no longer treat it on a case-by-case basis: solve this crisis, and then wait and see how things turn out in the future. If the experience of the last two decades has taught us anything, it is that the situation never really returns to normal.
Even when we see the outward symptoms of peace, we miss the alienation and resentment within. No matter what we do, things never get better, for very long.
It'snot as though the Indian state has no experience of dealing with secessionist movements. Almost from the time we became independent 61 years ago, we have been faced with calls for secession from nearly every corner of India: from Nagaland, Assam and Mizoram, from Tamil Nadu, from Punjab etc.
In every single case, democracy has provided the solution. We have followed a three-pronged approach: strong, almost brutal, police or army action against those engaging in violence, a call to the secessionist leaders to join the democratic process and then, generous central assistance for the rebuilding of the state.
It is an approachthat has worked brilliantly. Even in, say, Mizoram, where alienation was at its height in the 1970s, the new generation sees itself as Indian. The Nagas now concentrate their demands on a redrawing of state boundaries (to take in part of Manipur), not on a threat to the integrity of India. In Tamil Nadu, the Hindi agitation is forgotten and in Punjab, Khalistan is a distant memory.
The exception to this trend has been Kashmir. Contrary to what many Kashmiris claim, we have tried everything. Even today, the state enjoys a special status. Under Article 370 of our Constitution, with the exception of defence, foreign policy, and communication, no law enacted by parliament has any legitimacy in Kashmir unless the state government gives its consent. The state is the only one in India to have its own Constitution and the President of India cannot issue directions to the state government in exercise of the executive power of the Union as he can in every other state. Kashmiri are Indian citizens but Indians are not necessarily Kashmiri citizens. We cannot vote for elections to their assembly or own any property in Kashmir.
Then, there is the money. Bihar gets per capita central assistance of Rs 876 per year. Kashmir gets over ten times more: Rs 9,754 per year. While in Bihar and other states, this assistance is mainly in the forms of loans to the state, in Kashmir 90 per cent is an outright grant. Kashmir's entire Five Year Plan expenditure is met by the Indian taxpayer.
In addition, New Delhi keeps throwing more and more money at the state: in 2004, the Prime Minister gave Kashmir another $ 5 billion for development.
Kashmiris are happy to take the money and the special rights but they argue that India has been unfair to them because no free political process has developed. And, it is true that we have rigged elections in Kashmir. But, it is now nearly a decade since any rigging was alleged. Nobody disputes that the last election was fair. Moreover, even though the Congress got more seats than the PDP, the Chief Ministership went to Mufti Mohammad Sayeed as a gesture.
Given that Kashmir has the best deal of any Indian state, is there anything more we can do? Kashmiris talk about more autonomy. But I don't see a) what more we can give them and b) how much difference it will make.
If you step back and think about it, the real question is not "how do we solve this crisis"? It is: what does the Centre get in return for the special favours and the billions of dollars?
Beyond description, was my excitement when I saw four lakes scattered over a vast panoramic expanse—covered by green hills and majestic Nanga Parbat in the background. I was trekking down the Saral Gali pass and mother nature rewarded me for my strenuous effort. The magnificent panorama stretched 360 degrees.
Along with my three other journey mates I had spent a night at Lake Saiful Maluk, then started early in the morning for Jalkhad, a small stop over Naran-Chilas jeepable road. Earlier this road was much neglected and used to be in fairly poor condition, however, after the Kargil episode things started changing. Now FWO is constructing this road as a totally new driveway.
Saral Lake
From Jalkhad the road bifurcates. One part leads to Chilas and joins KKH while the other goes to Sharda and Muzzafarabad in Azad Kashmir. This part is popularly known as MNJ (Mansehra – Naran – Jalkhad) road. It runs along the Kunhar River up to Jalkhad and from there over the Nuri Nar Gali Pass to Sharda. Our fascinating journey started from Naran and far beyond the road seemed to wind through a dense pine jungle upto Bata Kundi – a small but beautifully placed valley. From Bata Kundi the track forks to one of the most popular tourist spots known as “Lalazar” and the main road continues towards Jalkhad.
Hanif, our jeep driver was an expert in maneuvering through serpentine roads which later had to drive across over steep heights of mountainous terrains. A happy chance that he belonged to the area where we were destined to go i.e. the North East. Being a local, all roads, bends and treks were on his finger tips so he confidently navigated each and every corner, the blind one as well as the clearly visible but highly dangerous ones too.
Porters and horses for our trekking journey at Jalkhad had already been arranged. These porters were mostly residents of the valleys from where we started our track. A few kilometers before the Nori Nar Gali Pass we left the jeep and started on foot. Ascent was gentle in the beginning but became a bit steep in the later hours. There was no clear trail.
Guided by our local escort, we walked through the dense green grass with multi colored flowers. It was evening now and sky lit up in warm colors of a splendid sunburst in the west. It was unanimously decided to pitch camps at the spot. A chilly wind blew across the landscape. It made quite tough for us to establish camp site, but our porters were expert at it. They erected tents within no time and started preparing meal for the night.
The night was dark but studded with countless stars of unimaginable size. I had never seen such a clear starry night. Despite all that beauty, it was a sleepless night because of high altitude, and high chill in the atmosphere. Our camping site was just below Saral Gali Pass which is more than 4000 meter high. Air was very thin and it was quite tough to breathe at night. Lush green grass also consumed oxygen in the air and made the situation worst.
Saral Valley
We began our ascent to the Saral Gali Pass early next day. Trek was now a bit more steep and rugged. But the Pass was not too far, and within one and half an hour we reached at the top. We saw an un-named lake in the North West of the pass [also mentioned on the map in Pakistan Trekking Guide by Isobel Shaw]. We moved along the ridge and soon reached at a point from where we saw first glimpses of that deep blue un-named lake. It lay there, serene and beautiful, like a centuries old jewel shining among a vast landscape. It was absolutely a mystic land with deeply serene and enchanting solitude all around. I wished I could go into it to experience the magical solitude of the valley, just sit and meditate; a deep urge within my soul but then had to move ahead as we were to go a long way still further, still higher.
As we approached the descending slopes of Saral Gali Pass, it seemed we were standing in the midst of a Lost Paradise. Four lakes of sapphire blue water shimmered under the sun. As far as the eyes could see, a lush green carpet of wild foliage stretched all over the place. Herds of sheep and goats spotted the vast panoramic grandeur of the valley. A picturesque pastoral and magnificently inspirational landscape surrounded us. Some patches of snow from icy months still lay around the lakes. Multi colored stones were being reflected in the shallow crystal clear waters. Pink, yellow and blue flowers swayed in abundance in the swampy areas and vast pastures. Green hillocks descended towards the banks of these shining lakes with mighty Nanga Parbat looming in the distant background. Blue sky overhead dotted with white cloud patches as small sailing boats on a wild blue ocean.
A nameless lake in the valley
Spellbound, we witnessed the glory of Supreme Nature. Silently we prayed to Almighty. This gorgeous canvass carrying unforgettable strokes of color, motifs of a never ending beauty and message of peace and hope slowly assimilated in our worldly beings and purified our mortal existence. Porters moved ahead and broke the spell of Nature's magic. About half an hour from this heavenly abode, equally beautiful and marvelous – stretched another lake. It had a vast shallow shore richly endowed with scattered round pebbles and sand. In its tranquil waters relatively green and small clusters of cold water fish were swimming in an idyllic joy along the surface. What a day it was! What a place to sit around! Meditate! Soothe and relax! All of us were still and speechless, so beauteous and bountiful was the look of it– it was simply unbelievable.
Landscape became an embroidered piece of sheet with natural prints of multi colored flowers. Pink dominated everywhere. It was like living in a fairyland. But my trance broke and had a restless heart as I saw MNJ road and jeeps waiting for us. Beauty though is mostly a short lived and short loved affair but stays forever and ever in the eyes and hearts of those who love Nature.
"The most beautiful emotion, man can express is the mystique. It’s the power of all truth, all art and science. But to science, emotion is a strange thing. Science can no longer feel the wonder, the awe and delight, for science, it is as good as dead.The highest wisdom and most radiant beauty is manifest in the knowledge about the centre of true mysticism. In that sense, I belong to the ranks of devoutly mystic men.
(Albert Einstein)
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Photographs:All photos in this post have been taken on locations by the writer.
Disclaimer:The views expressed in this article are the sole responsibility of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of the ‘Wonders of Pakistan’. The contents of this article too are the sole responsibility of the author(s). WoP will not be responsible or liable for any inaccurate or incorrect statements contained in this post.
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